15 May 2011

Long Overdue, with Massive Changes

Yes, you're reading that correctly. We are now residing, for the time being and for what seems to be the foreseeable future, in Prague. It's quite a far leap, I realize, from the last entry (was it really five months ago?) but I'll get to explaining that later. First, let's recap the past five months or so.

In January we took a vacation from Korea to visit Vietnam. We spent three weeks traveling south from Hanoi during a spate of unexpectedly cold, rainy weather. In normal fashion we travelled on a fifty dollar ticket that allowed us on and off passage on overnight busses from Hanoi in the North all the way to Saigon in South.  Luckily we were forced to take a three day layover (changed from nine hours) in Shanghai so we had packed some warm clothes. After spending a few days in Hanoi, we took a short trip to Halong Bay, which due to the weather, was quite misty, and at that point still a bit surprisingly, cold. Despite this we met some interesting people (some of whom we met with again during our trip down the length of the narrow country) and had a good time.

Our next stop was in Hue, where we were greeted with two days of rain. On the first we visited the Citadel, spending many hours exploring the vast enclosure. The following day we decided to take a driving tour to various famous sites from the Vietnam War. It was interesting to finally see many of these places after having spend such a great deal of time studying them, and the war, in school. A highlight was hunching our way through the Vinh Moc tunnels. Our guide at the site had lived in the tunnels for much of his earl adolescent life.

Again on a bus, we arrived in Hoi An. Truth be told, we were a bit disappointed by the city famous for tailor made clothing and it's status as a Unesco World Heritage Site. In all it seemed a bit too touristy, in fact, I'd probably go so far as to call it "Disney Land Vietnam." It was very unlike the rest of the country, a bit too manicured, a bit to fake, and all in all just a bit too much. Even so, there were some high points to Hoi An. First, it is, actually, quite a picturesque city. It's historical position as a trading city brought in many migrant peoples from neighboring countries including China, India, Japan, and even as far away as Holland. With them they brought their architecture, adding unique character to the city. The city is also famous for some of it's snack-like dishes which we ate perhaps a bit too much of, and washed down with ultra cheap "bia-hoi" or "fresh beer." Fresh beer is brewed, well - fresh - daily and brought to the restaurant by what are essentially home brewers of various scale and quality. With a low alcohol content, and an even lower price tag (about ten cents a glass), bia-hoi provided the perfect accompaniment to our culinary adventuring.

After a few days in Hoi An, we again boarded a bus to Nha Trang. All of the sunny pictures we'd seen of the beach side city had apparently been taken during another time of year as instead of sunny blue skies and crystaline waters, instead we found ourselves cowering under the eaves hiding from the rain. It should be noted that at this point in the trip we had not yet seen warmth, nor sun. Needless to say, we were getting a bit fed up with that so without much ado we continued on our way to a beach called Mui Ne - famous for various colored, large, sand dunes, a "fairy spring," and kite surfing. Kite surfing was so popular, in fact, that venturing onto the beach in the afternoon hours was a surefire way to end up maimed from a falling kite. This also meant that it was incredibly windy BUT, it was warm, and sunny so we happily spent five days here lounging on the beach in the morning, and relaxing in the shade during the afternoon. Fresh whole fish and other sea food delights kept us fed well, and in the end, we felt quite rested and relaxed.

Ending our trip in Ho Chi Minh City, or Saigon if you're anyone but the government, we expected the chaos and noise of the South East Asian city. Instead, as it was the begining of the Tet Holiday, we were greeted with empty streets and an odd quiet that blanketed the city outside of the main tourist area. Luckily the major museums were open throughout the holiday so we happily wandered the empty streets eating at street vendor's carts on our way between the various sites.

Finally we ended our trip and flew back to Korea where we absolutely needed to put in five days of desk time before we could take off for a visit home to California.

Coming back to Korea, we were greeted with some contractual issues which, combined with a multitude of other unpleasantries, led to our resignations and a one way flight from Busan to Prague. I won't go into details but that, basically, is the short version resulting in our current, liminal state. We're in the process of getting a work visa, and following that will be trying to get our residence permit so it's an interesting time but not in the least exciting.

It's good to be back, it's good to see old friends, and life is good albeit a bit unknown at the moment - but that's not something we usually do so in the meantime it's a good change of pace.

I'll keep updating this blog from time to time, and will add pictures later this week to accompany the above stories, but if you're interested I've started a new blog dealing with life in the Czech Republic. It probably won't be that interesting for those not living or looking to move here, but it will probably get updated a bit more frequently so have a look if you've got a minute to spare!

The address is: http://pivoland.wordpress.com



30 December 2010

Happy New Years Eve!

It's the last day of 2010 - seems like a good time for a blog update...


September saw us beginning the second semester of school, as well as taking a short trip to Beijing during the Korean Fall Harvest Festival, called Chuseok, which is basically the equivalent of Thanksgiving in the U.S.  


















October saw the culmination of a summer of training with the Gyeongju Marathon. It was a good race for both of us, and a beautiful course. The race wound it's way along the river and through Gyeongju city, often referred to as an "outdoor museum" in reference to the many historical sites scattered throughout the area. All in all a great day!


Getting pumped for the race


I enjoyed the Gyeongju marathon so much that I decided to sign up for another marathon a few weeks later. Kate ran the Half Course and placed 4th, earning her some podium time, a big trophy, and a wad of cash. I had a pretty good race on the full course - improving my best time by two minutes. 







A few weeks later Kate ran a 10km race in Miryang hosted by the group of folks hell bent on constructing a massive airport in the district. Regardless of how one feels about that venture, the race was  and enjoyable one. I didn't run because of a slightly injured knee, but instead got to take pictures of Kate and a bunch of my students who came with a colleague of mine to run. The day included a free lunch of soup, tofu, and kimchi, as well as free Makkeoli (Rice Wine - kind of like beer), dance competitions and more. Kate came in at 1st place for the women, for which she won a box of apples. We also won a bag of rice in a raffle, and Kate, along with two other foreigners teachers in town, "earned" another box of apples for "volunteering" to participate in the Dance - Off. 

Kate cruising in front

A coworker of mine, and two of my students



Debatably the best part of Fall was the abrupt end of humidity and heat, allowing us to get back out climbing under clear blue skies and surrounded by the orange and yellow hues of the season. We got out a fair bit and had some great days on the rock. 









We spent Christmas with friends down in Busan and enjoyed a Turkey feast with all the trimmings. Below are a few more highlights from the school semester. 

Sports Day starts off with a traditional "activity"

Winter Festival at Muan Middle School - Students
participating in the English Play

The English Play cast - along with my two coteachers - 
Miyeong below left and Yong-Hee upper right. 



Well, I think that about sums it up! A Happy and Healthy New Year to everyone from 
Kate and I here in Miryang!

27 August 2010

at the end of summer

We're at summer's end in Korea and school has started up once again. Normally I would greet this juncture with some resentment, though the heat and humidity of the Korean summer has left me waiting anxiously for the cooler temperatures of fall, and the dry cold of winter. An injured shoulder, marathon training, heat and humidity, not to mention the veritable jungle which has engulfed the mountainsides for the past couple of months has meant a break from climbing, or really any activity in the mountains besides afternoons spent hanging out at the river with an ice cooler of beer. As I mentioned though, it's really been too hot for much else, and besides this, we're getting ready to run a marathon in October so lots of time has been dedicated to hitting the pavement. 



To beat the heat in summer there are a lot of fun things to do. Among these are going to the beach in Busan, as well as visiting a number of riverside swimming holes in the mountains near Miryang. One of our favorite places, in the aptly named "Ice Valley," shares locality with a strange phenomenon in which Ice forms in a scree field during the hottest summer months, and then correspondingly melts with the coming of winter. This is called "The freezing place," and is understandably popular with visitors. 

At the beach with friend Mike - in between Iraq adventures


Mountain swimming hole


Obvious


Hanging at the river in the mountains


Swimming at the river in town

Besides teaching summer classes, running at 5am, and hiding from the sun, we managed a short trip to Japan where we visited Tokyo, Kyoto, and Kawaguchiko at the base of Mt. Fuji. Before going to Japan, I'll admit that I had a lot of preconceived ideas of what it would be like, and I've got to say that by and large, these were met with near exactitude. Japan is remarkably - perhaps overly- safe, clean, and expensive; not to mention carefully manicured to present just the right combination of tradition, culture, and cutting edge modernity. It is an incredibly easy country to be a tourist in and despite our initial woes at being taken from small town Korea and dropped into the sprawling chaos of Tokyo, the trip left us both with a very positive impression of Japan, and definitely an interest in going back to explore the country's interior. 


That's a lot of sake


Highlights of Japan include:

1.) Fireworks - on our first night in Tokyo we saw the end of the annual Firework Festival which culminated with a massive showing of multicolored fire over Tokyo Bay. 


Fireworks


Kimono - people actually do wear kimono, it seemed

2.) Temples, Temples Temples - There are a lot of temples in Japan, each with a unique character and history. In Kyoto we visited three of particular note. Higashi Honganji - one of the largest wooden buildings in the world, Kinkaku-ji - 'the temple of the golden pavilion' which appears to float serenely over a glassy pond, and Kiyomizu-dera, a temple overlooking the city and filled with shrines said to impart an abundance of benefits to their visitors. On our final day in Tokyo we visited what is the oldest temple in the city, Senso-ji. This was definitely not a calming experience though, due to the throngs of people swarming the temple grounds and the innumerable souvenir sellers who had set up shop in the streets surrounding the edifice. Interesting, nevertheless. 

sitting in the temple, looking towards the temple gate

children with pigeons, Higashi Honganji







Kiyomizu-dera


Kiyomizu-dera


Kiyomizu-dera


Kinkaku-ji


Senso-ji


Senso-ji

3.) Mt. Fuji- Initially we were unsure if it would be either possible to climb the mountain but weather sided with us and we were able to make a quick jaunt to the summit and back down. We were even able to see the mountain from a look out point the next day, which is apparently a rarity during this time of  year due to persistent cloud cover. The hike up is not too hard, but it is steep. As one might imagine, the trail goes up, and up, and up, but only for 6km. By walking around the caldera one can reach a meteorological station and the true summit of Mt. Fuji. The brightly attired crowds, buildings, and erosion control barriers don't necessarily lend themselves to a particularly serene walk up this sacred mountain, but it was certainly a fun way to spend a day. 


True Summit of Mt. Fuji



Mt. Fuji Caldera Rim


Mt. Fuji Summit



Mt. Fuji



Heading Down


4.) Beer/Whisky - there are many good things about Korea, but beer is not one of them. In fact, Korean beer is probably, no, without a doubt, the absolute worst beer either of us have ever had. Japan on the other hand enjoys a wide selection of palatable options including a growing craft brew scene which we were sure to sample. One beer purchased in Kyoto was of special interest to me - it was brewed using ancient, rejuvenated Egyptian barley found in Egypt. Through a collaborative effort between Kyoto University and Waseda University, the beer was brewed to produce what is thought to be an accurate reproduction of ancient Egyptian beer. Exciting? I should say so! Japan is also home to a number of Whisky distilleries producing award winning Single Malts with a particularly Japanese twist. All in all a fair bit more impressive than the swill consumed by the general populace in our current place of residence...


Kyoto Craft Beer

5.) Bike riding around Lake Kawaguchiko. On our first day in Kawaguchiko we rented bicycles to ride around the lake. This was a nice, and hot, way to see the area, leaving us both with a definite nostalgia for the Netherlands! On our last day in Kawaguchiko we rode a gondola to a lookout point for a view of the mountain and then took a pleasant, tree covered trail back to town. Visiting this town was a nice break from our "city-time" in Tokyo and Kyoto. 


Lake Kawaguchiko


Kawaguchiko Manhole Cover


Mt. Fuji and Kawaguchiko Town below


Lake Kawaguchiko


Kate, a rabbit, and Mt. Fuji

And with that, we flew back to Korea where the following morning, on the six month anniversary of our time living in Miryang, we left for work.